The second biggest user of energy in your home is the water heater. I wish they could make a water heater that would last a lifetime, however I guess I will have to wait a while for that. For twenty years John Carr and I have been barraged with questions about water heaters on our radio programs. Ok, we get it! With expert help from the technical bulletin department at the A. O. Smith Water Heater Company here are a few of the most frustrating problems as commented upon by you. Smelly water, noisy water heaters, and a leaking T and P valve.

Question 1: What makes my water smell?

CAUSE: The most common cause of “smelly water” is a non-toxic sulfate reducing bacteria, scientifically termed Divibrio Sulfurcans. This bacteria often enters the water system through construction or a break in ground piping. The bacteria creates the energy it needs to survive by converting sulfate(SO4) to hydrogen sulfide(H2S) gas you smell in the water. Hydrogen sulfide gas is distinctive because of its rotten egg-like stench. Its presence can severely affect the taste as well as the odor of the water. Occasionally this bacteria can be accompanied by black deposits, the result of pipe and fitting corrosion. In extremely high concentrations, hydrogen sulfide gas can be toxic though the gas is detectable long before harmful levels are reached.

The requirements for the bacteria to thrive are:
a) an elevated level of sulfur in the water,
b) activated hydrogen from cathodic reactions within the tank,
c) water with little or no dissolved oxygen,
d) and temperatures below 138°F.

Items that can increase the potential for this bacteria are:
a) water softeners,
b) well water,
c) and long periods of no water movement.

Other factors that may contribute to smelly water:
· Chlorides of Magnesium and Calcium leave a bitter taste.
· Chloride of Sodium produces a salty taste.
· Sulfates (50 ppm) gives a medicinal taste.
· Carbon Dioxide in a low pH water gives fizzy water.
· Iron and tannic waters also give a bad taste and odor.

TREATMENT The simplest treatment available is the shock-chlorination of the system. This is a surface treatment, and often requires repeated trials in heavily infected systems. The chlorination of a system requires that you follow each step explicitly to avoid an un-treated portion of the piping system from reinfecting another part. Longer lasting solutions include chlorination or aeration of the water supply.
NOTE Since smelly water is caused by a bacteria presence and is not caused by the water heater, any treatment would not be considered warranty related.


Question

2: Do mineral deposits build-up inside my water heater causing lots of noise?

MINERAL DEPOSIT SYMPTOMS • Rumbling • Crackling • Popping

CAUSE With the advent of high input and larger storage tanks in both commercial and residential heaters, deliming has become a necessity of modern maintenance. Lime (CaCO3), is the most notable factor when discussing water hardness. Lime is present in every water system to some degree across the entire United States. Since lime is inversely soluble (the more you heat, the more lime comes out), higher usage, excessive hardness, and increased heating surface can lead to a high incidence of “limed-up” heaters. Symptoms often include a popping of water trapped under lime deposits or the sizzling of water trapped next to elements, boiling it to steam.

THE FIX Treatment of a “limed-up” heater is relatively simple. Since CaCO3 is a base, the easiest way to dissolve it, so that it can be flushed from the heaters is with an acid. In water heaters manufactured for potable water, a food-grade product – generally made with phosphoric acid – is required.
Two common treatments available through A.O. Smith’s parts department are Mag-Erad® and Un- Lime®. Any well-stocked plumbing supply house should have a deliming solution available. The directions on the product should be followed expressly.

Question

3: Does your water heater weep onto the floor from the Temperature and Pressure relief valve?

THERMAL EXPANSION SYMPTOMS
· Effects are only noticeable after hot water use followed by periods of no water use.
· Relief valve drips during any recovery cycle when no hot or cold water is used. · Hot water pipes creak while heater is recovering and all valves are closed.
· Tanks or other components of the water supply system fail prematurely.
· A metallic creaking noise might actually be heard in the location of the heater as the pressure is relieved and the stretched tank returns to a natural shape.
· Faucets drips during any recovery cycle when no hot or cold water is used.
· Water surges when a valve is first open and then pressure drops.

CAUSE The water in a water heating system expands when it is heated and has a greater volume. Since water will not compress (like air), system designers must include provisions for thermal expansion. (Water in a closed tank at 50 psi, when heated just 10 degrees, will reach a pressure of 250 psi). Many water supply systems have check valves at the water meter to prevent any possible contamination of the public water supply by the accidental back-flow of contaminated water into the supply mains. These check valves are often required by code, and some cities are even installing the check valves. They serve a useful purpose. Do not remove them! The use of pressure reducing valves (PRV) is another cause. PRVs are designed to conserve water and prolong fixture life. Many PRVs also act as very effective check valves. Again, do not remove them! Water softeners in the system may also act as back-flow preventers.

TEST Follow these easy steps to diagnose thermal expansion:
· Turn the heater thermostat all the way down, and install a water pressure gauge with dead hand (AOS part #4798) on the drain valve. Open the drain valve, so the gauge reads system pressure.
· Open a hot water tap and allow 15% to 20% of the tanks volume to run out. Shut off the drain valve and make sure that no other fixture in the system, hot or cold, is open. Make sure that outside fixtures, if they are on the same system, are turned off too. Any water leaks or use will make the test meaningless.
· Check the water pressure gauge, and turn the pointer so it lines up with the pressure indicating needle. Turn the thermostat back up to its normal position, so the heater cycles on. Watch the pressure gauge.
· If the system is closed, the pressure will start to climb steadily and rapidly. A small amount of thermal expansion control may be built into the system because of trapped air pockets or a water hammer arrestor. In that case the pressure will increase slightly, hold steady for a short time and then rapidly increase. The temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P) or PRV should open and release water once the pressure reaches the maximum setting on the valve. The valve will close once the pressure falls below the pressure setting of the valve.

THE FIX The ideal fix involves the use of a pressure reducing valve if supply pressures are above 60 to 70 psi, and a properly sized expansion tank. The PRV reduces supply pressures to 40 to 60 psi allowing an economically priced and sized expansion tank to be used. The PRV also offers the benefit of saving water and prolonging the life of water flow valves. The PRV is not required if the system already has one or if high supply pressures are desired. The PRV is installed between the check valve and the water heating system. The expansion tank is installed between the PRV and the water heating system. Follow the manufacturers instructions for installing the expansion tank. Run the thermal expansion check again. The pressure should increase only slightly then hold steady throughout the recovery cycle. The expanded water is flowing back from the heater and into the pressurized storage bladder of the expansion tank. Air pressure will force this water out of the expansion tank into the supply once usage resumes.
DO NOT DEPEND ON THE T&P VALVE TO HANDLE THERMAL EXPANSION! The T&P valve, according to the makers of those valves, was designed as an emergency relief device only. The T&P could be subject to reduced effectiveness or failure.
WARNING Thermal expansion of water, if not compensated for in system design, will lead to the early failure of components. These failures are not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty, so it is extremely important that everyone be aware of the causes, symptoms and solutions to thermal expansion in a closed water heating system.

Now that you have it from the company you should be able to diagnose any problem you may have. Visit www.HotWater.com for more imformation.

Jim Salmon

Problems with your thermostat?

The furnace thermostat is that mysterious but essential control device which determines when your heater will turn itself on, how long it will operate, and to what temperature it will heat your home. Every thermostat has a little known device built into the mechanism called “the heat anticipation setting”. The heat anticipator helps the thermostat determine exactly when the furnace burners should light and how long they should operate to maintain the even temperature you have set on your thermostat. In simple terms, the thermostat anticipates how much heat it needs to operate efficiently so that the furnace does not turn on and off every time the temperature drops one degree below what you have set the thermostat at. If you have set temperature in your home at 70 degrees, you would think the furnace would turn off at 70 degrees right? Wrong! The heat anticipation in the thermostat will turn the furnace off at 69 degrees to maintain a natural and even heat, allowing the furnace to run longer and cycling less frequently. If the heat anticipation settings are incorrect or are not operating properly your furnace may turn off late, thus overheating the home and allowing the furnace to exhibit symptoms of short cycling (turning on and off frequently). Every single furnace has a recommended heat anticipation setting. If your furnace displays any of the above symptoms it may be a simple adjustment that makes things right.

Melt that snow - A Pro and Con Product Guide

Remember the days when your car would rust out in two years? Times sure have changed haven't they? My favorite snow melting product is plain old rock salt. Calcium chloride, as the scientific community calls it, has been used for a hundred years to melt ice and snow and to make ice cream. Well I guess change is inevitable.

The following table will help you buy the right stuff to keep your walkway and driveway clear and safe this winter.

Home Repair Web Sites

• Home Repair Encyclopedia - This program uses sound and animation to provide you with tips from the pros....www.smarthome.com

• ENERGY STAR is a joint program of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy helping us all save money and protect the environment through energy efficient products and practices. Results are already adding up. Americans, with the help of ENERGY STAR, saved enough energy in 2005 alone to avoid greenhouse gas emissions equivalent to those from 23 million cars — all while saving $12 billion on their utility bills. www.energystar.gov

• Community site where members chat about DIY and learn and share free advice. www.discussdiy.com

• Hot Water Heater Information and Tips www.HotWater.com